UNESCO's world heritage sites

In its care for precious places, the UN cultural agency is torn between its own principles and its members’ wishes; the principles are losing ground

WHEN an archipelago famed for its flora and fauna is deemed to have escaped from environmental peril, that might sound like good news for anyone with an interest in the fate of life on Earth. But UNESCO’s recent clean bill of health for the Galapagos islands was greeted with dismay by many of the people who care passionately about the place.

The decision to remove the islands from the list of “world heritage sites in danger”—taken at a meeting in Brasília that concluded on August 3rd—was only one of several signs that the UN agency is bending its own rules under pressure from member states. And since UNESCO is supposed to be an unprejudiced protector of the whole world’s built and natural environment, such slipping standards are not merely of concern in remote Pacific islands.

But take the Galapagos case first. Since 1978, the 19 islands (each with its own idiosyncratic ecosystem) have been recognised as a place of “outstanding universal value” to humanity, and therefore placed on UNESCO’s list of world heritage sites, which now number 911. The government of Ecuador is proud of the site’s inclusion and sensitive to any suggestion of poor stewardship. When, in 2007, UNESCO expressed concern about the islands, President Rafael Correa declared a state of environmental emergency and said he was ready to curb tourism. It was, and remains, clear why action was needed: the islands’ iguanas (see picture), tortoises and exotic birds are under threat from a noxious species known as homo sapiens, as well as creatures, from rodents to flies, which follow in its wake. Apart from an ever-rising influx of tourists, the islands’ resident population has grown in the past half-century from about 2,000 to more than 30,000, many of them illegal squatters.

Mr Correa’s move failed to pre-empt action by the Paris-based UN agency, which later that year put the archipelago on its danger list—one of the strongest signals it can send that the integrity of a place which matters to the world either has been, or could soon be, compromised. Depending on the circumstances, putting a site on that list can be seen as an act of solidarity with a country, or else as a scolding.

Ecuador felt that to stay on the list was a slight and lobbied to get the islands removed; by this year, when ministers (from a rotating group of 21 member states) convened for a world heritage meeting, it was clear that the Brazilian hosts had been won over. After a secret, contested vote, the islands were deemed out of danger.

All over the world, NGOs devoted to the Galapagos conveyed a similar message: yes, the government in Quito had done some helpful things, but it would be a disaster if UNESCO’s move suggested all was well. “I am concerned that [UNESCO’s] announcement is premature and may give the impression that the natural wonders of the Galapagos are no longer threatened,” said Toni Darton of the London-based Galapagos Conservation Trust.

Not all the decisions taken at UNESCO’s meeting in Brasília disappointed environmentalists. After another secret vote, a forest in Madagascar, where rosewood is being felled illegally, was declared in danger—despite the awkward fact that China is a big market for the timber, which takes a century to grow. And America, in a widely praised move, got the Everglades Forest in Florida reinserted on the danger list; it had been removed in 2007.

By declaring the alligator-infested wetlands in peril once again (because less water and more pollutants were flowing in), the federal government was giving itself an extra card in its dealings with other parties, from the local authorities to companies. Other cases where countries declared their own sites in danger have included war-ravaged lands like Croatia and Cambodia: in the port of Dubrovnik and the palaces of Angkor, a danger-listing attracted support for repair and conservation. “It’s a pity so many countries see the danger list as a slap in the face,” says Kishore Rao, acting head of UNESCO’s world heritage centre. “It can also mobilise help.”

But the hard fact is that danger listings, as well as inscribing sites in the first place, are getting infected by politics. At the Brasília shindig, some 21 new sites were added to the heritage list—even though the expert advice suggested only ten were eligible. Some countries, it seems, will not take no for an answer. China, for example, successfully nominated some wilderness in the south of the country, with subtropical forests and spectacular cliffs. The Swiss-based International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN)—on which UNESCO relies for advice on natural sites—had opined that the bid was premature: not enough had been done to define the area and plan for its protection. But given that China had invested funds and prestige in the bid, a rejection would have been awkward, say people who went to the Brasília meeting. At least two other proposals for world heritage sites were so tied up with national pride that it would have been hard to turn them down: a village north of Riyadh where the Saudi royals originated, and an imperial palace in Vietnam where a millennium celebration is being held this year.

For man-made sites, UNESCO relies on advice from the International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS), a conscientious fraternity of conservation professionals. Its head, Gustavo Araoz, says that “we respect the UNESCO committee’s right to reject our views.” But as far as it can, his institution tells the UN body to ponder not just whether a site is nice or interesting, but whether it has been cared for, and will be in future. “We urge a renewed emphasis on conservation,” he sighs.

Why would it matter if UNESCO’s currency were debased? Well, it would be tough for countries who take the care of sites seriously, and for worthy Japanese who try to visit as many as possible. But as Tim Badman of the IUCN points out, graver matters are at stake. His agency talks a lot to mining firms who are keen to avoid sullying their name by harming places of cultural or ecological value. If the gold standard of a UNESCO listing is adulterated, such discussions lose their edge.

Meanwhile, UNESCO’s private competitors see the travails of the heritage list as symptomatic of wider problems. The New York-based World Monuments Fund has a “watch list”, and a programme of practical help with conservation, that carries no stigma, says a spokesman. Any individual in the world can propose a place for the watch list, so the process is not seen as a beauty contest, or a dunces’ parade, involving governments. And Jeff Morgan, of the California-based Global Heritage Fund—which provides intensive, long-term help at a limited number of sites—says UNESCO lacks the resources to monitor its ever-growing list of places, especially if they are vast bits of wilderness. Satellite technology has made monitoring (of forests, say) possible, but the Paris agency lacks the ability to use it. “If a firm had so little knowledge of the assets in its care, it would go out of business,” he said.

Imbued, even in its better moments, with old-world cultural pride, UNESCO is not about to become a corporation. But it could do one thing to enhance the credibility of its choice of sites and danger listings: its annual world-heritage meetings, including votes and the expert testimony, should be thrown open to the public.

The Galapagos Islands contain more than 1,300 species found nowhere else on earth

At the Galapagos Conservation Trust (GCT) we are very concerned that Unesco's decision last week to remove the Galapagos from the "World Heritage Sites In Danger" list may give the impression that the natural wonders of the islands are no longer threatened. As the only British charity dedicated to saving the Galapagos, we know that the unique biodiversity is still very much at risk – and tourism has a key role to play in conserving what Sir David Attenborough has called "the most astonishing place on earth".

The Galapagos Islands' significance and biodiversity – they contain more than 1,300 species found nowhere else on earth – led to them being named one of the first World Heritage Sites in 1978. Since then human intervention has had a devastating effect. The population and economy of the islands are expanding rapidly and unsustainably. With people come demands for resources, as well as pollution and waste. These issues are by no means unique to the Galapagos – but in a natural paradise like this, balancing the needs of the human and natural worlds is more critical.

Much of this growth is directly or indirectly due to tourism. The unregulated expansion of tourism was one of the reasons behind Unesco's decision to declare Galapagos a World Heritage Site In Danger in 2007. Annual visitor numbers have increased from 12,000 in 1979 to more than 160,000 now, and the rise in both invasive species and population mirror this pattern. More than 40 Galapagos species are now "critically endangered".

Since 2007, the Ecuadorian government has addressed a number of these issues. Immigration and quarantine measures have been tightened, a £10 million "Invasive Species Fund" has been set up and governance of the islands has been strengthened. But there is still a long way to go.

Curiously, tourism is also a major contributor to conservation. For 40 years income from tourism has helped to fund conservation work and much of the £2 million the GCT has sent to the Galapagos has come from visitors. But the model for tourism needs to be carefully managed. Traditionally, people have visited managed sites aboard a small cruise ship accompanied by a trained naturalist guide. The number, size and location of these boats is strictly controlled.

More recently there has been a rapid growth in land-based tourism from both international and Ecuadorian visitors. Nightclubs and bars are mushrooming and activities such as sports fishing are starting up. This needs to be reviewed and controlled. The authorities need to be clear what model of tourism works for the Galapagos and what doesn't – the fragile ecosystem cannot cope with mass tourism or "bucket and spade" breaks. A review is under way, but it is too early for the impact to be felt.

Unmanaged tourism could destroy the Galapagos; planned tourism could save them. This is why we feel Unesco's decision is premature. The Galapagos may no longer officially be a World Heritage Site In Danger, but they are still very much at risk.

Starbucks Reserve Premium Single-Origin Coffee Line Launches in Select U.S. Markets This Fall

Unique flavors from exotic destinations like the Galapagos Islands will be available for coffee connoisseurs to experience in-store or brew at home.

The first offering, Galapagos San Cristobal, originated on San Cristobal, one of the oldest geological locations within the Galapagos Islands. The subtropical region's intense microclimate, rich volcanic soil and equatorial sun create ideal conditions for extraordinary coffee. Influenced by these environmental characteristics, Galapagos San Cristobal is a medium-bodied coffee that features fresh flavors and highlights of green herbs balanced by soft cocoa and spice.

"For nearly 40 years, our coffee buyers have traveled the world discovering the most exquisite tastes to appear in a coffee cup," said Dub Hay, senior vice president of coffee and global procurement, Starbucks Coffee Company. "Only three percent of all the coffee grown around the world is good enough to make it into a bag of Starbucks(R) Coffee. Sometimes we encounter a truly rare and special coffee and we can only purchase a small quantity. Starbucks Reserve(TM) represents our heritage as a purveyor of the world's finest coffees, and we're thrilled to offer our customers passage on this journey of discovery."

Galapagos San Cristobal, and all other Starbucks Reserve(TM) coffees, will be available for sale as whole bean half-pound packages, and in select markets they will be available brewed by the cup through either the Clover(R) brewing machine or Pour Over Brewing method. Clover(R) brewing machines are currently featured in more than 60 stores in the U.S., and Starbucks will continue expanding the presence of Clover(R) in additional Starbucks stores through the end of the year. Both the Clover(R) brewing machine and Pour Over Brewing method are ideal methods to showcase flavor and highlight subtle nuances of Starbucks Reserve(TM) coffees.

Beginning August 31, Galapagos San Cristobal will be available for sale as whole bean or hand-crafted by the cup in select markets, while supplies last. The suggested retail price for a half-pound of whole bean starts at $12.50 and a tall (12 fl. oz.) cup of Galapagos San Cristobal brewed by the cup coffee starts at $2.95.

For customers looking to secure the first Starbucks Reserve(TM) coffee before the August 31 store debut, Galapagos San Cristobal will be available for purchase on www.starbucksstore.com starting August 17. And beginning August 21, participating stores will reserve half-pound bags of whole bean coffee to be picked up on August 31.

As a special preview to My Starbucks Rewards Gold level customers, an exclusive preview sale of Galapagos San Cristobal was hosted on Gilt Groupe on August 3. The coffee sold out in less than 12 hours as Starbucks most loyal customers recognized the distinctiveness of this coffee.

"Curating a private sale featuring Galapagos San Cristobal was a special opportunity to work with Starbucks to showcase this rare coffee and help them recognize loyal My Starbucks Rewards Gold level members," said Stefan Pepe, general manager, Gilt Home. "The fact that this coffee sold out in less than a day shows that the most discerning of Starbucks customers recognized the rarity and special attributes of the coffee and appreciated the exclusiveness of the Gilt.com sale."

Additionally, Starbucks invites customers to participate in a special preview tasting of the unique coffee on August 28 at participating Starbucks Reserve(TM) stores. Customers can visit their local store for times of each tasting event.

While Galapagos San Cristobal is the first offering within the Starbucks Reserve(TM) line, beginning in October up to four exclusive Starbucks Reserve(TM) coffees will be available for a limited time in Starbucks stores. The first coffees available for a limited time will include Aged Sulawesi Kalosi, El Salvador Montecarlos Estate Pacamara, Nicaragua Corcasan Fair Trade Certified and Brazil Sul de Minas Peaberry. A list of stores carrying Starbucks Reserve(TM) coffees can be found through our online store locator.

Wildlife of the Galapagos Islands

Galapagos Island Wildlife

The Galapagos Islands are world renown for their untarnished natural beauty and plethora of wildlife. The creatures found on these islands are like nowhere else on earth. They are uninhibited and fearless of humans. The range of various wildlife species that inhabit the islands is simply amazing, and some of the species are indigenous only to the Galapagos Islands.

Marine Life

Galapagos Fur Seals are the smallest of the seal species and can only be found on the Galapagos Islands. Sealers nearly obliterated the species in the past and they have only marginally recovered.  Galapagos Sea Lions live in the same area as the Fur Seals and it is difficult to tell the difference between the two species.

Twelve species of sharks, sixteen species of whales and seven species of dolphins can be seen cavorting in the crystalline waters of the island.  Eighteen different species of moray eels can be found along with several types of rays. Over three hundred species of fish live in these waters.

Pacific Green Sea Turtles are an endangered species that call Galapagos Island home. The males never venture on land and the females come onshore only to lay their eggs. The Galapagos provides the stable temperatures they need to continue their species, though various birds and marine life frequently prey upon the young if they make it to sea. Galapagos Marine Iguanas are indigenous to Galapagos Islands and swim out to sea to eat seaweed. The rest of their time is spent sunning themselves on the hot black island volcanic rock.

Birds

Galapagos Islands have both cold weather and warm weather birds living side by side due to its position on the Equator and the influx of both cold and warm water. Approximately two thousand Galapagos Penguins inhabit two of the thirteen islands. Pink flamingos, Darwin’s Finch, Boobies, Frigate birds and Waved Albatross are among the many species of birds that can be found on these islands.

Reptiles

The Giant Tortoise was hunted almost to extinction before conservation efforts and are still ongoing today. The Galapagos Islands were named after these famous tortoises. There are two different types within the species, those that live near the coast have a more saddle shaped shell, and those that dwell inland and have a dome shaped shell and ingest mostly grasses.

The Galapagos Islands are home to an incredible array of smaller creatures and reptiles because there are virtually no natural mammalian predators to keep the populations under control. Some of the species to be observed are Pink Iguanas, Land Iguanas, Lava Lizards and the Sally Lightfoot Crab.  With such a rich, diverse array of marine, bird and land animals, Galapagos Islands host some of the worlds most unusual species of animals found anywhere on earth.

Ecuador's untapped oil

The value of 846 million barrels of oil left in the ground: priceless.

What is a barrel of oil worth? Generally, the answer depends on a number of factors, including the mood of the commodities markets, the grade of the oil and demand at the gas pump. The basic assumption, however, is that the oil has a value because it eventually will be available for use.

But in a historic move, Ecuador is asking the world to put a dollar figure on oil that will not be used — oil it intends to protect from excavation. On Tuesday, Ecuador and the United Nations Development Programme began soliciting donations for a trust fund that would remunerate the country if it forgoes drilling in a pristine portion of its Amazon rain forest for 10 years. The deal is this: In return for leaving 846 million barrels of proven reserves undisturbed in three major oilfields in the Yasuni National Park, Ecuador would be paid $3.6 billion — about half of the expected value of the oil if it were extracted. By leaving the land untouched, Ecuador also keeps 410 million metric tons of carbon dioxide trapped underground, leaves a jungle that is a biological treasure intact and preserves the way of life of three indigenous tribes.

It may be unorthodox, but countries are signing on. Germany has pledged $50 million over 13 years, and according to news reports, Spain is expected to contribute $250 million. France, Sweden, Belgium and Switzerland said they will add to the fund. So far, promises come to about half of what Ecuador says it needs if it is going to refrain from drilling. And donations are not restricted to countries: Corporations, nonprofits and individual citizens are welcome to give. Ecuador notes, however, that the main contributors are the Ecuadorian people, 40% of whom live in poverty, but who collectively will sacrifice billions they otherwise would reap.

Since President Rafael Correa officially proposed the idea at the U.N. in September 2007, many obstacles have emerged, and again and again the project was pronounced either dying or dead. The fund's creation this week is a testament to the Andean nation's determination to be a world leader on environmental issues. This is, after all, the country that amended its constitution to assert nature's right to "exist, persist, maintain and regenerate its vital cycles, structure, functions and its processes in evolution."

Whether the world community will step up to meet the fund's goal, only time will tell. But if Ecuador succeeds in raising billions of dollars to keep oil underground and rain forests unblemished, then the value of a barrel of oil is going to have a whole new meaning.

A new wind farm in Ecuador will have 20 wind turbines of 1.5 MW

For eco-friendly surfboard shapers, more kelp in the lineup

Surfboards have a toxic history, but a San Clemente shaper hopes to improve their 'eco cred' with greener materials.

Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands: The perfect equation for a South American break

Water fights belong to my schooldays - or so I thought. Because there were my guide and I sheltering under the ornate balconies of one of South America's most beautiful colonial cities, Cuenca, as a gang of giggling children did their best to drench us with their arsenal of waterbombs.

Independence Day: The Plaza de la Independencia sits at the heart of Quito, Ecuador's charming capital

We had left our flank unguarded, and I felt a damp 'splat', followed by a whoop of triumph. another pair of damp trousers.

Fortunately, Ecuador's children do not normally run riot, and nor are they waging a vendetta against English tourists. I'd walked into a countrywide ambush, also known as Carnival, the four-day pre-Lent holiday during which children here have carte blanche to douse grown-ups.

It proved an unforgettably intimate introduction to this Latin American country. Though the 200th anniversary of Charles Darwin's birth has focused attention on the Galapagos Islands whose unique wildlife inspired his revolutionary ideas. But as extraordinary a destination as they undoubtedly are, tiny Ecuador, which owns the archipelago, is far more than just a stop on the way.

It is also truly a journey to the centre of the earth - for Ecuador means 'equator' in Spanish. Finding the actual spot where north becomes south is not as easy as you might think.

My search started off well enough - an imposing 100ft stone monument topped with a five-ton globe proclaimed I had reached the equator, the centre of an entertainingly kitsch theme park called Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World). this was where an 18th-century French expedition first pinpointed the spot - the parallel ranks of Andean peaks were supposedly vital for calibrating their instruments.

Here, demonstrations suggest water does indeed swirl down a plughole in opposite directions depending which side of the equator you're on. And you can have your picture taken with a foot in either hemisphere. But then a bombshell - satellite technology has demonstrated that the French team got it wrong by about 800ft. So, with impressively entrepreneurial spirit, rival spots have sprung up.

Brooding: Ecuador is a country dotted with volcanoes, notably the huge - and active - Tungurahua

For a more intriguing - not to mention calmer - place to contemplate the earth, we headed for Quitsato, 40 miles north of Quito. Ringed by imposing volcanoes, a giant sundial has been constructed with a 30ft orange cylinder as its pointer, on a spot confirmed by GPS to be exactly 0 degrees latitude. There is next to no development here, only a guide who explained how archaeological finds suggest the Incas worked out where the equator ran several centuries before we managed to.

The enthusiasm of Ecuadorians to share their unique place in the world is infectious. Street vendors selling beautiful scarves and blankets congregate wherever there are tourists. But for a true Ecuadorian shopping experience, I headed to Otavalo market, a short drive beyond Quitsato. An entire square of the pretty town was thronged with all manner of stalls selling bright textiles, leather-work, Andean musical instruments and ornaments.

Just as fascinating was the food market, boasting such exotic fruits as tree tomatoes, red bananas, melting custard apples and flowers.

My trip had begun in the capital, Quito, overshadowed by another immense volcano and renowned for having South America's largest colonial-era centre. With its network of narrow streets and beautiful churches, in particular the all-gold interior of the Jesuits' Compania, it was quite dazzling.

Stalls roasting entire pigs poke out from the pavements, while candyfloss-style taffy is squirted directly out of taps. all Ecuadorian life is focused on Quito's Plaza Grande. While we were there, the tall, blonde finalists for this year's Miss Ecuador paraded through the square, just as disgruntled gas workers were politely demonstrating outside the President's palace.

No prizes for guessing who got more attention.

I was travelling with Saga tours, rightly renowned for its friendly, well-informed local guides and selection of high-quality hotels and restaurants.

Lion's roar: The Galapagos Islands are a wildlife wonderland where residents include sea lions

In Quito, the culinary highlight was rincon La ronda, the perfect opportunity to hear the haunting music of panpipes.

Food is one of the unexpected joys of Ecuador - every meal or snack seemed to feature bananas or corn, while fried pork, grilled fish, and, if you're feeling brave, guinea pig cooked on a spit, are all popular delicacies.

From Quito we headed south along the evocatively-named Avenue of the Volcanoes, where snow covers the peaks of those which tower over the 5,000m (16,400ft) mark.

While the area hasn't witnessed a major eruption in living memory, many of these gigantic cones are by no means extinct. One, a mouthful named Tungurahua, put on a show, belching out enormous clouds of ash as I watched from a safe distance. The delightful subtropical spa town of Banos, on the edge of the Amazon basin, is en-route. Also unmissable is Ingapirca, a miniature Machu Picchu built by the Incas as a staging post and now run by the Canari, a people who predate even them.

But Cuenca was the highlight, its restored colonial houses overlooking a tumbling, tree-lined river. Fortunately, Carnival only comes once a year, and otherwise Ecuador is pretty safe - although the roads aren't for the faint-hearted.

Cuenca also has a permanent claim to fame  -  it is considered to be home to the Panama hat despite its name. The inaccurate title was popularised because the hats first spread to Europe after being worn by workers digging the Panama Canal. After a tour of the factory of Hermanos Ortega, where they bleach, mould and finish the hand-woven hats in traditional fashion, I duly bought my own.

After avoiding the odd watery ambush, it was onwards to the Galapagos - and seldom can there have been a place so guaranteed to exceed your expectations. After an hour-and-a-half flight from the wealthy port city of Guayaquil, I was transferred to my luxury yacht, the 90ft M/C Anahi.

I marvelled at the huge sealions basking in the hot sunshine on the decks of unoccupied neighbouring boats, then it was back onto the island of Santa Cruz, in search of the world-famous giant tortoises. There they were  -  mountainous, creatures, munching through the lush grass or wallowing in refreshing mud pools.

After an overnight sail, it was on to the lava island of Chinese Hat. The moment we stepped ashore from our dinghy, baby sealions came shuffling up to us, mewing curiously. It was during moments like these that I realised why the islands inspired Darwin so much.

Shell suit: The famous tortoises of the Galapagos were among the animals that enthralled Charles Darwin

Well-managed tourism  -  my funny, engaging, locally-born guide, Johanna, ensured none of our party got too close  -  means once-in-a-lifetime experiences can happen almost hourly. Just when we thought we couldn't top snorkelling with Galapagos penguins  -  tiny, black-and-white torpedoes zipping through shoals of tropical fish  -  we were astounded again. After getting up at six on our last morning, we were lucky enough to see a female green turtle waddling back to the waves after laying her precious eggs on a magnificent white sand beach. Even as we reluctantly made our way back to the airport, we were treated to the surreal sight of a bus stop where every bench was occupied by a slumbering sealion.

There's no need to leave South America to the backpackers. Ecuador gives you the chance to experience this magical continent in miniature, with one of the world's ultimate destinations as a bonus.

Hopes are high that, within the next four months, the descendants of the most famous giant tortoise will see the light.

Once again, eggs have been found in nests in the corral of giant tortoise Lonesome George.

Caretakers of the Giant Tortoise Breeding Center "Fausto Llerena" found eggs in the corral Lonesome George has been sharing for decades with two Galapagos turtle females from Isabela Island placing hopes high again to save the virtually extinct species of La Pinta tortoises.

In previous occasions eggs have been found in George's corral, but after a few months of scrutiny, scientist had to announce the eggs to be infertile, when they noticed a systematic decline in weigh.

In the early 70s, a snail expert accidentally discovered what today is considered to be the only surviving individual of the Pinta Island tortoise species.

This giant Galapagos turtle was taken to the Charles Darwin Research Station in Santa Cruz Island, where he still lives today, sharing his corral with two females from Wolf Volcano from Isabela Island, in an attempt to save his genotype.

Since July 2008, this is the third occasion that eggs have been found in his enclosure.

Giant Galapagos Turtle Habitat

Males are much larger than females. The different populations exhibit marked differences in size and shape. The populations may be divided roughly into two groups.

Those from the smaller, drier Islands tend to be smaller (females average 27 kg, males 54 kg) and have saddle-back carapaces and longer, thinner limbs.

Conversely those giant Galapagos turtles from the larger, wetter Islands are larger with dome-shaped shells.

The saddle-back would appear to be a modification allowing the giant turtles to reach up and browse on the taller vegetation.

This is particularly important since on the drier Islands with giant turtle populations the Opuntia cactus (a major source of water) has evolved an arborescent form.

Galapagos turtle mating appears to occur at any time of the year although it does have seasonal peaks.

Almost any kind of green vegetation is taken as food, including Hippomane mancinella which is highly poisonous to most creatures.

When possible the Galapagos giant turtle (Geochelone elephantopus) spends long periods of time partially submerged in pools, this may be both a thermo-regulatory response and a protection from mosquitoes and ticks.

At night this species may dig itself into soft ground or vegetation.

Galapagos turtles mature at 20-25 years of age. Compared to most turtles, the birth rate of turtles in Galapagos is extremely low.

Most turtles can lay hundreds of eggs at a time. However, the giant Galapagos turtle only lays between 2 and 16 eggs.

These eggs are laid in a hole dug by the mother. Then they are buried for incubation. The mother leaves, and the eggs hatch 4 to 8 months later.

Volunteers monitor reef fish

If you enjoy snorkeling in Waikiki and learning about Hawai'i's unique marine life, consider volunteering for Reef Watch Waikiki, a new reef fish monitoring program.

The first reef fish identification class and snorkel survey was held in February, and additional training sessions will be offered in March and April.

During the first session, volunteers gathered at Queen's Surf Beach and, working in teams, donned snorkel gear and surveyed a section of the Waikiki Marine Life Conservation District.

The volunteers saw different species of fish, coral and algae.

"The fish ID training was excellent; it was comprehensive, informative and fun," said volunteer Judith Tarpley. "I chose to participate because I love swimming in the ocean and enjoy identifying everything I see."

Karen Rohter, another volunteer who participated in the first training, said, "It's a chance to learn something new and participate in ocean environmental programs."

Earlier this year, Reef Watch Waikiki, a project of the University of Hawai'i Sea Grant College Program, became an official REEF Field Station and began teaching fish identification classes and the REEF survey method.

The monitoring program uses a roving survey method developed by the Reef Environmental Education Foundation that can be conducted with minimal training and basic snorkel gear. REEF has volunteer branches around the world, including the Bahamas, Galapagos Islands and several coastal states in the United States.

No experience is necessary to participate, but volunteers wishing to conduct snorkel surveys should be strong swimmers, competent snorkelers, and have their own mask, snorkel and fins

Ecuador effort to protect nature reserve in peril

A drive to protect Yasuni National Park, one of the world's most biodiverse, collapsed amid doubts about whether President Rafael Correa will leave its oil riches untouched. Next step is uncertain.

Reporting from Quito, Ecuador - Ecuador is trying to salvage its campaign to enlist international sponsors to protect a pristine nature reserve in the Amazon, after an initial drive ended in disarray and doubts about whether President Rafael Correa would leave the park's oil riches untouched.

Correa recently appointed former Foreign Minister Maria Fernanda Espinosa to head a new panel to seek donations from Arab and Asian countries for the 2.4-million-acre Yasuni National Park, one of the world's most biodiverse nature reserves.

Members of a previous panel of environmentalists, as well as Foreign Minister Fander Falconi, resigned last month after Correa publicly berated the Yasuni proposal they had spent two years developing, calling them "infantile environmentalists." The panel had completed a draft proposal and secured tentative commitments from the governments of Spain, Germany, Belgium and Sweden to contribute $1.7 billion -- about half the amount demanded by Correa.

"The president has declared his commitment to continue with the Yasuni initiative," Espinosa told reporters last month. "He has asked me to coordinate, supervise and organize the work, but who is really behind this big dream is the president himself."

Ecuador's plan to preserve Yasuni won international plaudits when it was unveiled in 2007. Foreign governments concerned about global warming and pollution would in effect pay Ecuador to leave 870 million barrels of Yasuni oil in the ground, 20% of the country's known reserves.

The goal was to save Yasuni's rain forest from the ravages of oil development that has stained other parts of Ecuador, particularly around Lago Agrio. Oil spills there have created health issues, including high cancer rates, and blighted the environment, according to a $27-billion lawsuit filed against Chevron by Ecuadorean environmentalists.

Chevron denies that it is at fault. The company in 2001 acquired Texaco, which explored for and extracted oil in Lago Agrio beginning in 1964 in partnership with Ecuador's state oil company, Petroecuador.

The draft proposal by the previous panel, headed by former Quito Mayor Roque Sevilla, called for the money to go into a trust fund administered by the United Nations Development Program. The interest from the fund was to have paid for reforestation, social aid to indigenous communities and clean-energy projects. The principal would remain untouched -- unless Ecuador exploited Yasuni's oil, in which case it was to be returned to donors.

Many environmentalists mourned the collapse of the deal that would have preserved a rain forest of uniquely concentrated biodiversity at the meeting place of the Amazon, the Andes mountains and the equator.

The United Nations in 1989 declared the park a "world biosphere reserve" for its unique "bank" of wildlife and plants. Yasuni is also home to several indigenous communities, including the Huaorani, that live in voluntary isolation.

"In one hectare you have more species of trees and shrubs than in Canada and the U.S. combined," said Quito biologist and Yasuni expert David Romo Vallejo, a professor at the University of San Francisco of Quito. "Yasuni has 630 species of birds, or 44% of what's in the Amazon basin, and 130 amphibian, 80 bat and 90 reptile species."

Members of Sevilla's team pursuing the trust fund concept had hoped to unveil it at December's Copenhagen climate-change summit, thinking they had Correa's support. But presidential advisor Alexis Mera cautioned them to wait, citing legal problems.

In early January, Correa issued harsh criticism of the panel, prompting the resignation of member and former Environment Minister Yolanda Kakabadse, who in May was named the president of World Wildlife Fund. She was not available for comment.

During one of his regular Saturday television programs, Correa said last month that he wanted a plan that would preserve the environment but allow for responsible exploitation of Yasuni oil reserves.

He also said that a trust fund managed by the U.N. would be a violation of Ecuadorean sovereignty. "We aren't going to let donors set shameful conditions," Correa told his television audience.

Some observers are pessimistic that foreign sponsors who were once ready to commit to the trust fund concept will be willing to let the Ecuadorean government, with its history of instability and fiscal mismanagement, control billions of their donated dollars.

Nor, observers say, will contributors want to pay for a reserve that in effect won't be one if Correa decides to drill for Yasuni's oil.

Kraul is a special correspondent.

Copyright © 2010, The Los Angeles Times

Ecuador expelling Galapagos residents in favor of conservation

October 5, 3:07 PMAspen Environmental News ExaminerCaroline Griesel

Galapagos Giant Tortoise subject to poaching.

The milieu in Puerto Ayora, Galapagos Islands, Ecuador  is tumultuous this month, as the government there is faced with a serious dilemma, in which there are no winners.

The Galapagos Islands were listed as a World Heritage Site by the UN in 1979, and are known worldwide for inspiring Charles Darwin's theory of evolution. The living laboratory is a pristine look at nature left unspoiled. It's home to many species of  endemic animals found no where else on earth, the most famous of which is the giant Galapagos's tortoise. Nonetheless, the UN listed the Galapagos as endangered in 2007. Damage caused by tourism and migration is increasing, causing a Catch-22 for management authorities.

San Cristoban Island, where tourism is growing.

The migrant population in the Galapagos has doubled in the last 50 years, and now 30,000 Ecuadoreans live in the Island chain. Historically, due to the lack of fresh water and fertile soil, the islands were left uninhabited, creating a distinctly unique ecosystem with equally unique flora and fauna. But the recent boom in tourism, followed by development, has caused a mass migration since the fifties, and now an infrastructure exists that is irresistible to mainlanders. Tourism offers new jobs in hotels and restaurants, wages in the islands are 70% higher, there are better schools, and no violent crime. However, the coastal areas are being over-fished, invasive animals like cats, rats, cattle, and fire ants are threatening the fragile ecosystem, and poaching of sharks and tortoises has been on the rise, according to a report by the Council of Hemispheric Affairs.

The government has done little to discourage migration to the Galapagos, but in response to global and economic pressure, it is now expelling poor migrants and deporting them back to mainland Ecuador. The Ecuadorian government has deported 1000 people so far this year. One of them was the daughter of Maria Marianna de Reina Bustos, who was rounded up in a local slum, "We are being told that a tortoise for a foreigner to photograph is more important than an Ecuadorian citizen", de Reina Bustos said to the New York Times. Another resident who abhores the expulsion, said, "After all, we are Ecuadorians, how can we be illegal in our own country". The campaign by President Correa limits the Galapagos population to people who were born there, people who moved before 1998, and those who have work permits issued by the government. Everyone else is displaced by police patrols that have checkpoints around the major settlements.

Mismanaged tourism threatening endemic species.

On the other hand, the same government offers subsidies for people living in the Galapagos, cheaper gas, and lower airfares. It has also sanctioned new housing developments. Tourism is the mainstay of the Ecuadorian economy, accounting for $200 million annually in revenues. As one of South America's poorest countries, the government needs to keep this industry growing. Scientists and wildlife management officials have criticized the expulsion, suggesting instead that it is mismanaged tourism that is the problem. 150,000 more tourists per year come to the Galapagos than the local administration can handle, according to park officials. Critics say that tourism should be capped and restructured, but Corella has been so far resistant to this approach.

The conservation of the Galapagos is in peril, but the Ecuadorian government is between the hammer and the anvil. Expelling migrants from the islands adversely affects Ecuadorian citizens, but restricting tourism will also. This affray could claim the birthplace of one of science's most important discoveries, but with careful consideration, Ecuador may be able to pioneer a solution that works for everyone, and set an example for other regions where people and preservation come into conflict.

LC talks with Eco Surf while cleaning up the California Coast

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Eco Surf Volunteers was asked to join Lauren Conrad, the star of MTV hits, "Laguna Beach," and "The Hills," to help kick off her new partnership with Kohls department store with a day-long beach cleanup along the Santa Monica Coast.  Lauren and Kohls teamed up with the California Coastal Commission and Whole Foods Market to host the event that brought out fans of the reality sensation, the media, and beach lovers such as ourselves.  We had the chance to talk with Lauren about the importance of giving back; a concept that she calls "a big part of the California lifestyle."  Lauren, who was recently introduced to our organization, loves the ethos of Eco Surf Volunteers and was impressed with the idea of not only getting involved at a local level but also with the high set of standards and commitment we hold to surfing communities around the world.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

TOURISM ON THEIR OWN TERMS

NEED MAGAZINE

JULY 2009

SURFING AND SERVICE

UCLA MAGAZINE

By Danielle Roque

Surfing and service – for Sam Bailey ’00, it’s the ideal combination.

An avid traveler and surfer, Bailey also is concerned about the impact his activities have on the larger world, and he has developed a unique way to combine hands-on humanitarian and environmental volunteer work with seeking the perfect wave.

Bailey is the founding director of Eco Surf Volunteers, a travel adventure program that performs local eco-volunteer works and community service designed to raise awareness of conservation, promote local economies and enhance understanding of local cultures.

Founded in August 2008, Eco Surf Volunteers recruits participants from all over North America to work with leaders in Canoa, Ecuador to improve the community’s conditions.

“Our last trip [to Ecuador] was in February, right in the middle of summer break for all the kids in Canoa,” says Bailey. “You would think nobody wants to go to summer school, but school administrators opened the doors to all children in the entire community.”

Everyone was surprised by the turnout.

“On the first day, 20 kids were seated in the small classroom,” Bailey says. “The next day the class size had more than doubled, and we were completely out of tables and chairs. By the last day, we had nearly 100 children participating. It was clear that we had created something truly special for everyone.”

Bailey’s inspiration came from a lengthy surfing trip he made in 2006. Traveling from Peru through Ecuador, Colombia, Panama, Costa Rica and Nicaragua, he was bothered by the potential negative impact that the surf culture can have on local communities. He felt compelled to combat the loss of local traditions and customs that surf tourism can cause.

“I saw a lot of beautiful beaches in undeveloped communities with truly unique cultures, but I also saw a loss of culture as a result of foreign investment,” he explains. “It was then that I decided I wanted to create an organization that would help educate South and Central American communities of could-be surf towns.”

Eco Surf Volunteer participants teach children English, repair existing classrooms, build new classrooms using local bamboo, construct new playground equipment from recycled material and natural resources, and implement early childhood development programs.

“I’ve heard that volunteering is ‘so cliché,’” says Bailey, “but hearing the kids ask us when we’ll return is not cliché. Seeing the tears well up in the eyes of our volunteers as we drive out of town, kids lining the streets waving goodbye, is definitely not cliché. The school administrators wrote to me three weeks after we left to say the kids were still talking about the week they spent with our volunteer team. There’s nothing cliché about what we’re doing. This is all very real.”

A San Clemente, Calif., native, Bailey graduated from UCLA in 2000 with his bachelor’s degree in geography. He played on the varsity men’s water polo team for five years and was a member of Theta Xi fraternity. He was assistant coach for the men’s water polo team at UCLA in 2007 and of the championship women’s water polo team in 2008. During the past decade, he has traveled to more than 30 countries on four continents. He has surfed the coasts of Brazil, Peru, France and Ecuador.

For information on Eco Surf Volunteers, visit www.ecosurfvolunteers.org.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Sticky Bumps Surf Wax

New Eco Surf Volunteers Sponsor!

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Rainbow Sandals

New Eco Surf Volunteers Sponsor!

www.rainbowsandals.com

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Surfer's Journal

New Eco Surf Volunteers Sponsor!

www.surfersjournal.com

Sunday, May 24, 2009

Volunteer Vacations for Surfers